Harper's Bazaar
Harper's Bazaar
Editor-in-chief |
|
---|---|
Categories | Fashion |
Frequency | Monthly |
Total circulation (June 2012) | 734,504[1] |
Year founded | 1867 |
Company | Hearst Magazines |
Country | United States |
Based in | New York City |
Language | English |
Website | harpersbazaar.com [42] |
ISSN | 0017-7873 [43] |
Harper's Bazaar is an American women's fashion magazine, first published in 1867. Harper's Bazaar is published by Hearst and considers itself to be the style resource for "women who are the first to buy the best, from casual to couture".[2] Aimed at what it calls "discerning ladies", Bazaar is published monthly.
Since its debut in 1867 as America's first fashion magazine, its pages have been home to talent such as the founding editor, author and translator Mary Louise Booth, as well as numerous fashion editors, photographers, illustrators and writers. Glenda Bailey is the editor-in-chief of U.S. edition of Harper's Bazaar.[3]
Editor-in-chief |
|
---|---|
Categories | Fashion |
Frequency | Monthly |
Total circulation (June 2012) | 734,504[1] |
Year founded | 1867 |
Company | Hearst Magazines |
Country | United States |
Based in | New York City |
Language | English |
Website | harpersbazaar.com [42] |
ISSN | 0017-7873 [43] |
History
Cover of Volume I, No. 49 of Harper's Bazar (now Harper's Bazaar), showing hairstyles (1868)
First called Harper's Bazar, it began publication as a tabloid-size weekly newspaper catering to women in the middle and upper classes. It showcased fashion from Germany and Paris in a newspaper-design format. It was not until 1901 Harper's moved to a monthly issued magazine which it maintains today. Now Harper's Bazaar is owned and operated by the Hearst Corporation in the U.S. and The National Magazine Company in the U.K. Hearst purchased the magazine in 1913.
Harper & Brothers founded the magazine.[4] This company also gave birth to Harper's Magazine and HarperCollins Publishing.
Victorian elegance (1898–1912)
As the turn-of-the-century began in America, Harper's Bazaar began featuring both illustrations and photographs for its covers and inside features of high society and increasingly of fashion.
During the late Victorian period, as the women's suffrage movement was gaining momentum (American women did not all win the right to vote until 1920 with the passing of the 19th Amendment), the introduction of more tailored dresses and jackets coincided with women's new sense of feminism. Bazaar also began profiling prominent socialites, such as the Astors and the Griscoms.
The Carmel Snow years (1933–1957)
In 1933, editor-in-chief Carmel Snow (a former editor at Vogue) brought photojournalist Martin Munkacsi to a windswept beach to shoot a swimwear spread. As the model ran toward the camera, Munkacsi took the picture that made fashion-magazine history. Until that moment, nearly all fashion was carefully staged on mannequin-like models in a studio. Snow's buoyant spirit (she rarely slept or ate, although she had a lifelong love affair with the three-martini lunch) and wicked sense of adventure brought life to the pages of Bazaar. Snow's genius came from cultivating the "best" people. Her first big find was art director Alexey Brodovitch, who innovated Bazaar's iconic Didot logo. Brodovitch is perhaps best known for his work with Richard Avedon, who, as a young photographer, was so determined to work at Bazaar that he endured the humiliation of 14 canceled interviews before finally being hired. Snow also unleashed the force of nature known as Diana Vreeland, whom she brought on as fashion editor in 1936. The collaboration of these four visionaries resulted in some of the germane fashion shoots of the 20th century and ended only with Snow's retirement, at the age of 70, in 1957.[5]
Alexey Brodovitch (1934–1958)
In 1934, newly installed Bazaar editor Carmel Snow attended an Art Directors Club of New York exhibition curated by 36-year-old graphic designer Alexey Brodovitch and immediately offered Brodovitch a job as Bazaar 's art director. Throughout his career at the magazine, Brodovitch, a Russian émigré (by way of Paris), revolutionized magazine design. With his directive "Astonish me", he inspired some of the greatest visual artists of the 20th century (including protégés Irving Penn, Hiro, Gleb Derujinsky, and, of course, Richard Avedon). One of his assistants was future Rolling Stone art director Tony Lane. Brodovitch's signature use of white space, his innovation of Bazaar 's iconic Didot logo, and the cinematic quality that his obsessive cropping brought to layouts (not even the work of Man Ray and Henri Cartier-Bresson was safe from his busy scissors) compelled Truman Capote to write, "What Dom Pérignon was to champagne ... so [Brodovitch] has been to ... photographic design and editorial layout." Brodovitch's personal life was less triumphant. Plagued by alcoholism, he left Bazaar in 1958 and eventually moved to the south of France, where he died in 1971.
The Vreeland years (1936–1962)
When Carmel Snow saw Mrs. T. Reed Vreeland dancing on the roof of New York's St. Regis Hotel in a white lace Chanel dress and a bolero with roses in her hair one evening in 1936, she knew she'd found *Bazaar'*s newest staffer. Diana, who is said to have invented the word "pizzazz", first came to the attention of readers with her "Why Don't You ... ?" column. (A typical suggestion: "Why don't you ... wear, like the Duchess of Kent, three enormous diamond stars arranged in your hair in front?") Before long, she became fashion editor, collaborating with photographers Louise Dahl-Wolfe and Richard Avedon and, later, art director Henry Wolf. Her eccentricity, perception and wit, as well as her sharp wit and sweeping pronouncements ("I adore that pink! It's the navy blue of India," "Elegance is refusal!"), were memorialized in the movie Funny Face, making her, for many, the prototypical fashion-magazine editor.
The Avedon years (1945–1965)
Richard Avedon began creating fashion portfolios for Harper's Bazaar at the age of 22. His distinctive photographs showed both chic insouciance and boundless vitality. Avedon's women leapt off curbs, roller-skated on the Place de la Concorde, and were seen in nightclubs, enjoying the freedom and fashions of the postwar era.
He was immortalized in the film Funny Face by the character Dick Avery (played by Fred Astaire), who asked, "What's wrong with bringing out a girl who has character, spirit, and intelligence?"
The Derujinsky years (1950–1968)
Gleb Derujinsky's 18-year career at Harper's bazaar spanned from 1950–1968 and during that time produced some of the classic images of the era. Scouted by editor-in-chief Carmel Snow and art director Alexey Brodovitch, Derujinsky joined the elite group of photographers, including Richard Avedon, who shot for the magazine. Working closely with the then fashion editor Diana Vreeland, Derujinsky proved a pioneer in his field, creating stunning juxtapositions between European Haute Couture dresses and landscapes ranging from desert sands to car junkyards, fairgrounds and airports, all this at a time when air travel was yet to become as common as it is now. "Avedon shot dresses and clothes, Gleb shot women living in them".[6]
To mark the inauguration of Pan Am's Boeing 707 in 1957, Derujinsky travelled across the world with Nena Von Schlebrügge, and Ruth Neumann, whom he would later marry. The latter would be his muse from the seaside harbors of China, to the Nara Deer Park in Japan, and throughout Thailand, Spain and Greece. The 1957 Paris Collections were the basis for a 25-page spread in Harper’s Bazaar featuring his photographs. "Gleb Derujinsky’s photographs evoke the best of Harper’s Bazaar: exquisitely beautiful, original, and instantly iconic images of a very fashionable life".[7]
Nonnie Moore (1980–1984)
Nonnie Moore was hired as fashion editor in 1980, having served in the same post at Mademoiselle.[8] The New York Times noticed the changes she made at Harper's Bazaar, highlighting how the magazine had been "looking a little dowdy", but that Moore had "noticeably sharpened the magazine's fashion point of view" by showing "brighter, younger and more stylish", complimenting her use of "young and exciting fashion photographers", such as Oliviero Toscani.[9]
Harper's Bazaar worldwide
The magazine is published in 32 countries and regions.
Arab world (in Arabic and English)
Argentina (in Spanish)
Australia (in English)
Brazil (in Portuguese)
Bulgaria (in Bulgarian)
Canada (in French)
Colombia (in Spanish)
Chile (in Spanish)
China (in Simplified Chinese)
Czech Republic (in Czech)
Germany (in German)
Greece (in Greek)
Hong Kong (in English and Traditional Chinese)
India (in English)
Indonesia (in English and Indonesian)
Japan (in Japanese)
Kazakhstan (in Russian)
South Korea (in English and Korean)
Malaysia (in English)
Mexico (in Spanish)
Netherlands (in Dutch)
Poland (in Polish)
Romania (in Romanian)
Russia (in Russian)
Serbia (in Serbian)
Singapore (in English, Malay and Simplified Chinese)
Spain (in Spanish)
Taiwan (in English and Traditional Chinese)
Thailand (in English and Thai)
Turkey (in Turkish)
Ukraine (in Russian)
United Kingdom (in English)
United States (in English and Spanish)
Vietnam (in Vietnamese)
Harper's Bazaar Australia
The debut issue was March 1998 with Nicole Kidman on the cover. From 2009 until 2013, the winner of Australia's Next Top Model, an annual Australian reality television series, appeared on the magazine's cover and in an editorial feature. The current editor-in-chief is Kellie Hush, whose first edited issue was November 2012.
- Editors
Karin Upton Baker (1998–2001)
Alison Veness-McGourty (2001–2008)
Jamie Huckbody (2008–2009)
Edwina McCann (2009–2012)
Kellie Hush (2012–present)
Harper's Bazaar India
Harper's Bazaar India began publication with the March 2009 issue, which featured Kareena Kapoor and Swarovski crystals on the cover.[10] The launch editor was Sujata Assomull Sippy, but she left the magazine after the April 2012 issue.[11] The ex-editor, Nishat Fatima, was appointed in December 2012.[12] Recently, former editor of ELLE India, Nonita Kalra, was appointed as the editor of Harper's Bazaar India.[13]
Harper’s Bazaar UK
In November 1970, the Hearst Corporation's Harper's Bazaar UK (founded in 1929)[14] and Queen magazine (which dated from 1862) amalgamated to form Harpers & Queen. The magazine was widely perceived to be focused on British "high society" and the lives of socialites and the British aristocracy. In March 2006, it was renamed Harper's Bazaar, bringing it in line with its international sister titles, and repositioned as a more celebrity-oriented fashion magazine. Harper's Bazaar UK has a long history of literary contributions from leading writers, including Evelyn Waugh, Henry James, Thomas Hardy and Virginia Woolf. It maintains that connection today, with recent articles written by Ali Smith, Jeanette Winterson and Margaret Atwood, and runs its own Literary Salon. The magazine has won several awards, including Consumer Magazine of the Year. The current editor-in-chief is Justine Picardie.
- Editors
Lucy Yeomans (2000–2012)
Jennifer Dickinson (2012)
Justine Picardie (2013–present)
Harper's Bazaar Vietnam
First launched on June 27, 2011, the Vietnamese version of Harper's Bazaar is called Phong cách Harper's Bazaar as a result of merging Harper's Bazaar and Phong cách.[15] Trương Ngọc Ánh was the first face cover.
In 2014, Harper's Bazaar Vietnam launched its website.[17]
Harper's Bazaar Singapore
This magazine launched on November, 2001. In 2008, an official fanpage on Facebook was launched.[18] An enhanced iPad edition was launched in 2012.
Harper's Bazaar Singapore was also the media partner for the first four seasons of Asia's Next Top Model.
In 2015, Harper's Bazaar Singapore launched its website.[19]
Harper's Bazaar China
Harper's Bazaar China was originally distributed worldwide in the form of Best China Fashion's English version. In November 2001, the magazine officially started a collaboration with Fashion Group. In September 2002, it began a copyright cooperation with Harper's Bazaar. After three years of copyright collaboration, the magazine changed its name to Harper's Bazaar in 2005. The targeted audiences of Harper's Bazaar China are successful women over 25 that have high income, good taste, love fashion, and pursue perfection. The chief editor of Harper's Bazaar China is Su Mang.
Harper’s Bazaar China has started BAZAAR Stars' Charity Night and has proposed to "let the charity become a kind of fashion." Hosted by Harper's Bazaar China, BAZAAR Stars' Charity Gala is an annual fundraising gala for Chinese celebrities who support charities. It collects money through an auction, to be used for charities that support causes for impoverished children, medical aids, disaster recovery and many others.
In an interview, the Editor-in-Chief of Harper's Bazaar China, Su Mang, said, "People usually think Fashion has nothing to do with charity. Sometimes they regard charity merely as our strategy to gain attention, but I want to say that, if behind the glamorous dresses, there is a true willingness to help others, we should also applaud for them."[20]
Harper's Bazaar Taiwan
Harper's Bazaar Taiwan was launched in February, 1990. It was authorized by Hearst Cooperation to be published by Hwa Ker Publishing Company Limited. Its chief editor is Elaine Liao.[21]
Harper's Bazaar HK
Launched in 1988, Harper's Bazaar Hong Kong was authorized by Hearst Cooperation to be published by the SCMP Group. Its chief editor is Xaven Mak.[22]
Harper’s Bazaar Arabia
Harper’s Bazaar Arabia is the Middle East and North Africa edition of the international publication, and was launched on March 1, 2007.[23] It is published by ITP Media Group in Amman and has prominent audiences in the United Arab Emirates, Saudi Arabia, Qatar, Kuwait, Bahrain, Oman, Jordan, Lebanon, Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia.
As well as showcasing local and regional fashion, beauty and lifestyle trends, the title has secured a number of world-exclusive covers and interviews with celebrities including Rihanna, Kendall Jenner, Kim Kardashian, Rita Ora, Sofia Boutella, Sophia Vergara, Nancy Ajram, Sarah Jessica Parker and Janet Jackson. The English language magazine also has a web platform,[24] and launched an Arabic language version of the website[25] in January 2017. The brand also publishes Harper’s Bazaar Art, Interiors and Junior titles and hosts an annual Harper's Bazaar Best Dressed event celebrating the most stylish women in the region.
In July 2018 Harper's Bazaar Arabia became the first magazine to have a Saudi Arabian woman on the cover when they featured Taleedah Tamer as their July/August cover girl.[26]
Editors
Mary L. Booth (1867–1889)
Margaret Sangster (1889–1899)
Elizabeth Jordan (1900–1913)
William Martin Johnson (1913–1914)
Hartford Powell (1914–1916)
John Chapman Hilder (1916–1920)
Henry Blackman Sell (1920–1926)
Charles Hanson Towne (1926–1929)
Arthur H. Samuels (1929–1934)
Carmel Snow (1934–1957)
Nancy White (1957–1971)
James Brady (1971–1972)
Anthony Mazzola (1972–1992)
Liz Tilberis (1992–1999)
Katherine Betts (1999–2001)
Glenda Bailey (2001–present)
See also
List of Harper's Bazaar cover models
List of women's magazines
Lizzette Kattan
Nat Mags (UK publisher)
Maria Podgorbunskaya
Margaret Elizabeth Sangster
Lucy Yeomans
Stephanie Theobald