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Brioni (brand)

Brioni (brand)

Brioni is an Italian menswear couture house owned by French holding company Kering. Founded in Rome in 1945,[1] it is known for its made-to-measure men's suits, sartorial ready-to-wear collections and leather goods. Throughout its history, the company has invented concepts such as the men's runway show, the trunk show, and the ready-to-wear Haute Couture. It has been a point of reference for the entertainment, institutional and business worlds. Its Creative Director from July 2012 to February 2016 was British-born Brendan Mullane.[2][3][4] Its creative director from April 2016 to September 2016 was Justin O’Shea.[5][6][7]

As of June 15, 2017, Nina-Maria Nitsche is Brioni's Creative Director.[8][9][10][11][12]

Brioni
Type
Subsidiary
IndustryFashion
Founded1945 (1945)
FounderNazareno Fonticoli
Gaetano Savini
Headquarters
Rome
,
Key people
Fabrizio Malverdi, CEO
OwnerKering
Websitewww.brioni.com [41]
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History

A Brioni boutique, at Wynn Las Vegas, featuring red cursive logo of 1986 to 2016

A Brioni boutique, at Wynn Las Vegas, featuring red cursive logo of 1986 to 2016

Red cursive logo of 1986 to 2016

Red cursive logo of 1986 to 2016

Brioni was established in Rome in 1945 as a men's tailoring company by founders Nazareno Fonticoli, a tailor, and Gaetano Savini, an entrepreneur.[13] They opened their first shop on Via Barberini 79, naming the brand after the formerly Italian Brionian Islands (now part of Croatia); the shop is still at the same address. Brioni quickly started to raise interest from high-profile movie business personalities, heads of state and business leaders.

In 1952, Brioni staged the first men’s fashion show in history, inside the Sala Bianca at Palazzo Pitti in Florence. The clothes introduced new silhouettes, bold colors and innovative fabrics, marking an important chapter for the company. A couple of years later, Brioni invented the trunk show, during which the collections were presented directly in stores, allowing customers to personalize the garments with the Su Misura service (made-to-measure).[14]

In 1959, a production plant was opened in Penne, Abruzzo, birth town of Nazareno Fonticoli. Called Brioni Roman Style, the state-of-the-art factory introduced the concept of Prêt Couture, or ready-to-wear Haute Couture that sealed the international rise of the brand.

In 1985, the company opened a tailoring school in Penne with the aim of transmitting to younger generations the specific Brioni sartorial method.[15]

In 2007[16] and 2011[17] The Luxury Institute ranked Brioni among the most prestigious men’s fashion luxury goods brands in America.

Recent history

In 2012, with the acquisition by French group Kering,[18] the company entered a new phase. Under the leadership of Creative Director Brendan Mullane, Brioni designs, develops and manufactures Su Misura garments and sartorial ready-to-wear collections as well as leather goods, shoes, eyewear and fragrance. Brioni products are distributed globally, encompassing Europe, Asia and America, through directly-owned boutiques and a network of department stores.

On March 23, 2016, luxury conglomerate Kering announced that it had appointed Justin O’Shea, a heavily tattooed Australian and street-style enthusiast with more than 80,000 Instagram followers, as creative director.[19] A self-taught retail expert, O’Shea was formerly the fashion director of the German e-commerce site MyTheresa.[20][21] O’Shea featured the four members of Metallica dressed in Brioni tuxedos in his first ad campaign with the brand;[22][23] the photos were shot by Zackery Michael.[24] The remake of Brioni's logo under O'Shea by friend and frequent collaborator Benny Robinson has been compared to the Fraktur typeface.[25][26] O'Shea showed his first collection for the house on 4 July 2016.[27] In early October 2016 Brioni announced that O'Shea would leave the brand.[28][29] Brioni reported that its Autumn/Winter 2017 collection would be presented to buyers in the Milan showroom from mid-November 2016 but would not have a corresponding runway show.[28]

On 17 March 2017 announced the appointment of Fabrizio Malverdi as CEO,[30][31] a month after Gianluca Flore stepped down from the role.[32][33]

Boutiques

As of 2015, Brioni had 46 directly-operated retail stores.[34] Brioni has stores in:[35]

Europe
  • Austria: Wien

  • Czech Republic: Prague

  • France: Cannes, Paris, Courchevel

  • Germany: Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Hamburg, Munich

  • Italy: Rome, Milan, Porto Cervo

  • Spain: Marbella, Barcelona

  • Switzerland: St.Moritz, Zurich

  • Turkey: Istanbul

  • Russia: Moscow, Saint-Peterburg, Ekaterinburg

  • Ukraine: Kiev

  • UK: London, Bicester

North America
Latin America
East Asia
Central Asia
Middle East

References

[1]
Citation Linkwww.mrporter.commrporter.com Brioni
Sep 24, 2019, 12:51 AM
[2]
Citation Linkwww.kering.comkering.com Brioni is strengthening its creative capacity and appoints Brendan Mullane as Creative Director 9 July 2012
Sep 24, 2019, 12:51 AM
[3]
Citation Linkwww.vogue.co.ukLauren Milligan, vogue.co.uk Brioni's Brit 9 July 2012
Sep 24, 2019, 12:51 AM
[4]
Citation Linkwwd.comLuisa Zargani Brioni Taps Artists for Fall Ad Campaign June 15, 2015
Sep 24, 2019, 12:51 AM
[5]
Citation Linkwww.businessoffashion.comKate Abnett, Brioni Names Justin O’Shea Creative Director The Business of Fashion March 23, 2016
Sep 24, 2019, 12:51 AM
[6]
Citation Linkwww.vogue.comLeitch, Luke (March 23, 2016). "G'day, O'Shea: Why Brioni's New Aussie Creative Director Is an Inspired Appointment". Vogue.
Sep 24, 2019, 12:51 AM
[7]
Citation Linkmobile.nytimes.comAfter Just 6 Months, Justin O’Shea Is Out at Brioni, The New York Times, 5 October 2016
Sep 24, 2019, 12:51 AM
[8]
Citation Linkwww.businessoffashion.comBrioni Names Nina-Maria Nitsche as New Creative Director LIMEI HOANG, JUNE 15, 2017
Sep 24, 2019, 12:51 AM
[9]
Citation Linkwww.nytimes.comBrioni Names Nina-Maria Nitsche as Creative Director The New York Times, Elizabeth Paton, 2017/06/16
Sep 24, 2019, 12:51 AM
[10]
Citation Linkwww.kering.comBrioni Appoints Nina-Maria Nitsche As Creative Director Kering press release, 15 June 2017
Sep 24, 2019, 12:51 AM
[11]
Citation Linkwwd.comBrioni Taps Nina-Maria Nitsche as New Creative Director: The designer succeeds Justin O'Shea, who left Brioni after a six-month stint. Luisa Zargani, Women's Wear Daily, June 15, 2017
Sep 24, 2019, 12:51 AM
[12]
Citation Linkhypebeast.comBrioni Appoints Nina-Maria Nitsche as Its New Creative Director Following Justin O’Shea’s brief tenure. Patrick Montes, Hypebeast, June 16, 2017
Sep 24, 2019, 12:51 AM
[13]
Citation Linkwww.brioni.combrioni.com Heritage
Sep 24, 2019, 12:51 AM
[14]
Citation Linkweb.archive.orgtelegraph.co.uk Mencyclopaedia: Brioni Archived 2015-07-21 at the Wayback Machine
Sep 24, 2019, 12:51 AM
[15]
Citation Linktmagazine.blogs.nytimes.comVisiting the source: making Brioni suits The New York Times, 14 April 2014
Sep 24, 2019, 12:51 AM
[16]
Citation Linkwww.marketwired.comLuxury Institute Survey: Wealthy Consumers Rate Top Men's Fashion Brands of 2007 Brioni, Armani and Ermenegildo Zegna May 22, 2007
Sep 24, 2019, 12:51 AM
[17]
Citation Linkpursuitist.comAlex Carter, Hermes, Brioni and Versace ranked as top luxury brands
Sep 24, 2019, 12:51 AM
[18]
Citation Linkdealbook.nytimes.comMark Scott, PPR Acquires Italian Suit Maker Brioni November 8, 2011
Sep 24, 2019, 12:51 AM
[19]
Citation Linkqz.comMarc Bain, Lovers of Brioni suits shouldn’t worry that a heavily tattooed Australian is the brand’s new creative head qz.com March 23, 2016
Sep 24, 2019, 12:51 AM
[20]
Citation Linkwww.nytimes.comElizabeth Patton, Brioni Announces Its Own Unconventional Hire The New York Times March 23, 2016
Sep 24, 2019, 12:51 AM